The Postbag: How I Converted My Mates
Six letters on talking friends into briefs: a wager that went far too well, a five a side team, a wedding crisis and a son who got there first.
Boxer briefs vs briefs: the popular style kept the brief's support and the boxer's name. How a rebrand won an argument the brief had already settled.
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Let me describe a piece of underwear to you.
It is snug. It is supportive. It follows the line of the body exactly, holds everything where it should be, sits flat under trousers, and has been sold in every campaign since 1992 on the strength of how well it grips.
I have just described a brief. I have also just described the boxer brief, the most popular style of men's underwear in the Western world. They are far closer to each other than either is to the thing the boxer brief is named after, and how that happened is one of the better stories in menswear.
In the beginning there was the brief, engineered in 1934 around one honest idea: underwear should support you. It ruled for half a century.
Then came the nineties, when the loose boxer became a symbol of everything the brief supposedly was not. Relaxed. Grown up. Cool. Briefs turned into sitcom shorthand for the man who had given up, and a great many men dutifully switched.
And then, almost immediately, began switching back. Not because the boxer is bad, because it is not, and this site has a whole article making the case for it In Praise of the Loose Boxer. But loose fabric and hard exercise have never got on, and the nineties were also when men started going to the gym in numbers. So when Calvin Klein put a supportive pouch on a longer leg in 1992, the market stampeded. The boxer brief now takes roughly 40% of sales in the United States and leads in most of Europe.
Look closely at what survived the hybridisation.
From the brief, the boxer brief kept the snug fit, the supportive pouch, the elastic waistband, the flat profile and the body-following cut. Which is to say: the engineering, all of it.
From the boxer it kept some leg, and the name.
That is the whole inheritance, and it is worth being precise about which half did the work. The looseness we were told made the boxer superior was the first thing out of the door. What the boxer contributed was permission. A generation raised on the tighty-whitie joke could go back to wearing a supportive, close-fitting garment without having to say a word they had been trained to find funny.
The name was not a lie. It was a bridge, and an enormous number of men walked across it. A good number have since walked halfway back and stopped at the trunk, which keeps all of the engineering and cuts the leg to something that leaves no line under a summer trouser The Best Trunks You Can Actually Buy.
Ask what those extra centimetres of thigh fabric contribute and you get a real answer, which is the part the purists tend to skip.
They stop skin rubbing on skin. If your thighs touch when you walk, and most men's do at some point in their life or their week, a leg that stays put is the difference between a comfortable ten kilometres and a miserable one. Cyclists worked this out long before anyone else. They also keep a layer between your leg and a scratchy trouser lining, and they anchor the garment so nothing migrates during a squat.
They also, on a hot day, add fabric you did not ask for, and on a cheap pair they will ride up your thigh and stay there. That is a fit problem rather than a design problem, and it is solvable How a Boxer Brief Should Actually Fit.
The reason this article is not the hit piece its old headline promised is that the boxer brief did not defeat the brief. It carried it. Every conviction this site holds about underwear, that it should support, that it should fit, that it should vanish under clothes, is a conviction the boxer brief shares completely. The argument was won in 1992 by the side that had the better name.
Which leaves only a question of taste and thigh gap. If your boxer briefs ride up, if you run warm, if you live in linen for four months of the year, the brief is the same garment with the last section removed and it is worth ten minutes of your life to find out CDLP brief. If they sit where you put them and you have never once thought about them, that is underwear doing its job and you should not let a blog talk you out of it Calvin Klein boxer brief.
Both of those are the same idea. One of them just had a better publicist. Briefs, Boxers, Boxer Briefs or Trunks: How to Choose