Underwear Considered

Things Men Say About Briefs, Ranked by How Wrong They Are

Eight myths about wearing briefs, ranked from the ones with a real point to the one stated with most confidence and least support. Fertility ranks worst.

· · 11 min read

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There is a particular tone of voice men use for this. It is the tone of a man passing on established knowledge, the one he would use to tell you which junction to come off at. He is not being unkind and he is not showing off. He is doing you a favour with a piece of information he acquired at some point, from somewhere, and has never had occasion to examine since.

I have said several of these things myself, out loud, to people whose opinion I cared about. That is the honest position this is written from.

Eight of them follow, ordered from the ones containing a real observation to the one stated with the greatest confidence on the least support.

8. "Boxers are more comfortable"

Very nearly right, and I am going to concede almost all of it.

There are conditions under which a loose woven boxer is the most comfortable garment a man can own, and anyone who says otherwise has an agenda. A hot night with the window open. A Sunday spent horizontal. Under a loose linen trouser in August, where the boxer moves independently of the trouser and nothing touches anything. That is real and it is worth having in a drawer In Praise of the Loose Boxer.

The word doing the damage is "more". Comfort is not a single quantity that garments possess in ranked amounts. It is task specific, and the task changes about six times a day. Put the same boxer on for a ten hour shift on your feet, or under a slim wool trouser, or on a bike, and the property that felt like freedom on the sofa becomes fabric migrating up one thigh and bunching behind a knee. Comfort in motion is solved by support rather than by absence. None of which is a failure of manufacture: it is what a woven pattern with a great deal of ease does, and it is the same pattern sleepwear is cut from The Boxer Short Is a Pyjama.

So: a loose boxer is the best thing in the world for about a third of the situations you will be in this week, and among the worst for another third. Own a good woven cotton boxer short, own briefs, and stop treating it as a referendum.

7. "They show under your trousers"

Also substantially true, also badly stated.

Here is the correct version. A brief with a thick contrast waistband, under a pale cotton chino, absolutely shows. The band prints a horizontal line across your lower back visible from across a room, and the designer's name on it does not make it less visible. A bright colour under white or stone reads straight through the cloth in daylight.

None of that is a fact about briefs. It is a fact about waistband thickness, hem construction and colour contrast, all of which are choices VPL, Static and Other Trouser Problems.

What shows through trousers, in order: colour contrast, then waistband bulk, then seam bulk, then the leg hem. Fix them in that order. Under pale or thin trousers wear something close to your own skin tone rather than white, which is the most effective single change and the one nobody makes.

Done properly, a brief is the least visible thing you can wear under a trouser, because it has the smallest footprint and no thigh seam. The garment with the most chances to print a line through cloth is the boxer brief, whose hem sits halfway down the thigh, exactly where a slim trouser is closest to the leg. The complaint is real. It has been filed against the wrong garment.

6. "They are what your dad wears"

Dated rather than false, and it was earned.

If you grew up in Britain or Ireland at a certain point, the observation was accurate in your own house. There was a stretch of years in which the brief became coded as the older man's garment across the English speaking world, while the boxer short and later the boxer brief took the shelves aimed at anyone under forty. A generation genuinely did watch their fathers wear one thing and choose the other.

Two problems with saying it now. The first is that the same logic applies to a great many things that came back. The garment did not become worse. Fashion moved, and has moved again, as you can see in what the mainstream brands have quietly reintroduced lately.

The second is geographic. Walk into a department store in Milan, Madrid, Lisbon or Buenos Aires and the brief is not the garment for old men, it is the garment for men Where the World Wears Briefs: An Atlas. An Italian of twenty five wearing a slip is not making a statement about anything, in the same way you are not making a statement by wearing socks Slip: Why European Briefs Fit Differently.

So it is a true statement about one country in one thirty year window, delivered as a fact about the object.

5. "They are unflattering"

A fit complaint wearing a style complaint's coat, and it deserves more sympathy than it gets.

The man saying this has almost certainly worn a bad one, and bad ones are the majority of what is sold. A flat fronted brief with no shaping, in a thin jersey, in the wrong size, does exactly what he describes. It has no geometry of its own, so it borrows whatever shape it can find and reports back honestly on all of it. It rides up at the leg. It gathers at the front. In a multipack of five it does this five times.

That garment is real and he has met it. It is not the only one.

What he has probably not met is one with construction in it. A brief with a horizontal front seam or a shaped two piece front has its shape built in before it goes near a body, so it holds a line rather than transmitting one. Sizing up half a size solves most of the rest, because much of what men call unflattering is a garment under tension it was never designed to carry How a Brief Should Actually Fit.

The fair test is one well made contour pouch brief in your correct size, worn for a week. If it still does not suit you, fine, and there are four other styles. But the experiment most men are drawing on was run with faulty equipment.

4. "Nobody wears them any more"

Here we cross from dated into untrue, in a way that is easy to check.

The brief remains a mainstream default across most of southern Europe, much of Latin America and large parts of Asia. Every major continental underwear house still builds its range around it, and the Swiss and German makers at the top of the market treat it as the flagship rather than the legacy item. The English speaking countries are the outlier.

What happened here is narrower. In Britain, Ireland, North America and Australia the brief lost the mass market and kept two ends of it: the older customer who never changed, and a smaller, quieter group who changed back. The middle emptied out. If your entire sample is British men aged thirty to fifty who discuss underwear in pubs, "nobody" is a defensible summary of your data.

It is a claim about your friends, delivered as a claim about the species.

3. "They are less hygienic"

Stated as a fact about the cut, this is unsupported, and I have looked.

What determines whether underwear is hygienic is fabric, fit and laundry. A breathable fibre against the skin, a garment that fits without compressing, and a proper wash at a proper temperature with a full rinse. Nothing on that list says anything about how much fabric there is or where the leg ends How to Wash Underwear Properly.

There is a grain of truth in it. Anything worn close to the skin in a non breathable synthetic, in heat, for a long day, holds moisture against you, and a close fitting garment does that more efficiently than a loose one. But that is a fact about polyester rather than about briefs, and it applies with equal force to a synthetic boxer brief, which has more surface area doing it.

The loose boxer meanwhile has a problem nobody mentions, which is that it does not stay put, and a garment shifting across the skin all day is a garment that chafes.

Cut is close to irrelevant here. Fabric is close to everything. Choose cotton, modal or merino fine rib cotton brief, wash properly, and the question dissolves.

2. "Real men wear boxers"

Not a factual claim, so it cannot be wrong in the ordinary sense. It is a costume rule, and costume rules are always about a picture somebody once saw.

This picture is traceable. The association between the loose boxer and a particular kind of masculinity is not ancient and not inherited. It was manufactured, extremely well, by advertising in the 1980s, and it worked so completely that within a decade men who had never seen the advert were repeating its conclusion as folk wisdom Launderette: The Sixty Seconds That Rewrote Men's Underwear. Before that campaign the boxer short was a slightly fusty item and the brief was standard issue. The hierarchy is younger than most of the men defending it.

Which changes what the sentence is. It is not inherited wisdom that survived testing, it is commercial persuasion, and if you are going to organise a wardrobe around a rule it is fair to ask who wrote it and what they were selling.

There is also the matter of who actually wears briefs. Footballers, cyclists, swimmers and most of the world's manual trades, because when a garment has to stay in place under load, support beats airflow The Case for Briefs: Why They Should Be Every Man's Default. The rule does not describe the men it claims to describe.

1. "They are bad for fertility"

Top of the list, and the reason is not that the science has been settled in the other direction. It has not.

There is a real, competently conducted, widely cited study behind this, and it found what it found: men who mostly wore boxers showed better semen markers, alongside a hormone signal consistent with the body compensating. That is a genuine result from a serious institution and it should not be waved away by a magazine with an obvious preference Do Briefs Affect Fertility? What the Study Actually Says.

What puts it at number one is the distance between how the sentence is said and what the evidence can carry.

It was cross sectional, so it photographed a moment and cannot establish cause. Its participants were men attending a fertility clinic, not the general population. Underwear type was self reported. It had no data on trousers or fabric. And it measured markers rather than outcomes: it did not measure time to conception and it did not count babies. The heat mechanism is plausible, the question is open, and the claim that your underwear will stop you fathering a child has never been demonstrated.

The accurate sentence is something like: one much quoted observational study found a moderate association with semen markers in a clinic population, and could not measure whether it made any difference to anybody. Nobody says that sentence. What gets said is a flat causal claim, delivered with total confidence, by a man who read a headline in 2018. That gap between confidence and support is what puts it here, even though the question itself is genuinely unresolved.

If you and your partner are trying to conceive and this worries you, the move is a conversation with a doctor about heat in general, not a decision about a drawer What Doctors Actually Say About Underwear.

What all eight have in common

Read them back and the pattern is hard to miss. Almost every one is a claim about other men. What your dad wore. What real men wear. What nobody wears any more. What is or is not flattering, which is a guess about how you appear to a room.

Only two of the eight are claims about the garment that you could test by picking one up, and those two, visibility and comfort, turn out to have the most substance in them. The opinions that survive contact with an object are the ones that came from contact with an object.

Nobody should feel foolish for holding any of these. They are ambient. They arrive in adolescence, they are reinforced in changing rooms, and there is no natural occasion in adult life on which a man sits down and audits his underwear beliefs. This article is that occasion, which is a slightly ridiculous thing for an article to be.

So: hold the garment, wear it for a week, and let that outrank whatever you were told. Every item here would have been shorter if somebody had done that first, including the ones I was wrong about.

Questions people ask

Are briefs bad for sperm count?

The evidence does not support a confident answer either way. One widely cited observational study found that men who mostly wore boxers had better semen markers, but it was cross sectional, its participants were attending a fertility clinic, and it measured markers rather than pregnancies. Heat does affect testicular function, but ordinary underwear under ordinary clothing produces nothing like the temperature rise of a sauna or a fever. Anyone trying to conceive should speak to a doctor rather than change garment style.

Do briefs show under trousers more than boxers?

Generally no. A brief has a smaller footprint under clothing and no thigh seam, whereas a boxer brief has a hem partway down the thigh, which is where slim trousers sit closest to the leg. What does show is colour contrast, a thick branded waistband and bulky seams. Wearing a colour close to your own skin tone under pale or lightweight trousers removes most visibility problems, whatever the style.

Are briefs less hygienic than boxers?

No. Hygiene is determined by fabric, fit and how you wash the garment, not by the cut. A breathable natural fibre such as cotton, modal or merino, in a size that fits without compressing, washed at a proper temperature and rinsed fully, is hygienic in any style. Any non breathable synthetic worn in heat for a long day holds moisture against the skin, and that applies to boxer briefs at least as much.

Do people still wear briefs?

Yes, and in most of the world they remain the standard choice. Briefs are the mainstream default across much of southern Europe, Latin America and Asia, and every major continental manufacturer still builds its range around them. The decline is specific to English speaking countries, where the boxer short and later the boxer brief took the mass market from roughly the late 1980s onward.